visit to lansdowne - a journey unforgettable

Visit to Lansdowne – a journey unforgettable!
Just two weeks of shifting from Bhopal to Delhi and I was already craving for space and break. Our favourite place Chail was out of the question this time as there was no accommodation at the Chail Palace. This being a three-day week-end we Delhites were descending upon the Hills like grasshoppers on the wheat fields. So, with Chail out of consideration and the limitation that we could start our journey only after 10 AM on 26th Oct as my father-in-law was to join us after overnight journey from Bhopal and then we had to be back on 28th Oct before his 9 PM train to Bhopal from Nizamuddin Railway Station, we zeroed in on Rishikesh – Ganga Ka Kinara and only 6-7 hours journey from Delhi.

I checked the portal of Uttarakhand tourism and booked the GMVN’s Bharat Bhoomi Guest House. The website is not a smart or user friendly. Moreover, you can book only upto three days before your visit. That means no online booking if you have made a sudden touring plan. But then, this technical glitch was more than compensated by human touch. I called the GMVN’s Bharat Bhoomi Guest House at the phone number given on the portal and the leady on the other side not only booked two rooms for me (over telephone, without any advance money!) but also advised to book non-ac rooms as at this time of the year air-conditioners are not required in Rishikesh. After living in Delhi for some days, I had started wondering whether honesty, courtesy and empathy are alien virtues!! I was wrong.

Anyway, life is a strange journey. The real excitement of life is in its unpredictability. Yes, you can plan your next a few days but you can never predict whether the same plan would materialize, per se. On 25th Oct morning my wife simply dropped the name of a place called Lansdowne that one of her colleagues has mentioned as a place worth visiting. I don’t know why but it stuck to me like super glue and the first thing on reaching office was to google Lansdowne. Within 10 minutes I had decided that our weekend destination would be Lansdowne and not Rishikesh as they are at the same distance from Delhi. Having decided upon the destination, the problem was to find suitable accommodation at Lansdowne. I found there are not many options. The only good options are - Oak Grove Inn, Fairy Dale, Blue Pine and some Jungle Resort called Ananda (good?).

I googled Oak Grove Inn and called at the given number. This property belongs to Col (Ret.) Rawat. Incidentally there was one room vacant on account of one cancellation minutes before. However, our requirement was either family suite or two rooms. Oak Grove Inn option was out. But it was nice to speak to Col Rawat – a straight forward yet concerned gentleman. May be next time. Fairy Dale was also booked. The owner of Jungle Resort Ananda, some apparently human voice recognizing himself as Mr Bisht, was so innocent that he had no clue whether there was any accommodation available at his resort!!! Before our luck could exhaust for the day, I got a family suite at Blue Pine Resort. The contact person at Delhi Mr Dharmendra surprised me by conforming my booking even though I could not pay him required advance because due to lack of time he could not collect money from me personally and I had no time to stand in the queue to deposit the money in the designated bank account. “Sirji, main booking conform kar raha hoon aap par bharosa kar ke bas aap booking cancel mat karna”. Hey was I in Delhi??!! Bharosaaaaa (trust)… in Delhi… Bill Gates in Cuba!!! But yes, Blue Pine Resort Voucher was there in my gmail inbox in next 5 minutes. Thanks Dharmendra for your help and Bharosa which I hope I did not break.

On the D-Day we started at 10.30 AM from our home and thanks to some perpetual construction work of Delhi and savings done by MCD and other authorities by not putting navigation / sign boards (are we hosting Commonwealth Games in Delhi in 2010? Wow, quintessential of our faith in God.) we could get out of the city not before 12.15 PM. The joy was short-lived as another major traffic jam was waiting for us at Modinagar. This traffic jam took us more than an hour to cross Modinagar. I must have done some really bad karma in my previous incarnation because I was not fortunate to have a ‘Darshan’ of ‘efficient traffic police’ of Modinagar during the entire pass. Sirji, shayad vaapasi me darshan denge. I really salute the people..no…no…residents of Modinagar (because even some animal were not able to negotiate the traffic jam) who have really the widest zone of indifference.. which is further stretchable, if required.

Post Modinagar, our journey was not very eventful for some time…because I realized the mistake later only. After Modinagar when we reached Meerut, thinking that I might save some time bypassing the city, I made a mistake that cost me 25 km extra run and maybe 40 minutes more. Actually I should have entered the Meerut city and then asked for Mawana road, which is the shorter route. My mistake was actually accentuated by Google map as it showed the route via Khatauli, which is actually a longer route than via Mawana. I thought it was futile to repent the mistake and enjoy the journey irrespective of the route. All roads lead to Rome. Via Mawana or via Khatauli, you can reach Lansdowne any way. From Khatauli we have to take right and after railway crossing move on Meerapur road, which is a 20 km drive from Khatauli. On both sides there were lush green fields and road was really good. Moreover, there was virtually no traffic on the entire stretch upto Meerapur. From Meerapur we have to take left and after moving about 200 mtrs take right at the crossing where Monty Millions restaurant is situated. Since we had already lost much time as already mentioned and we were carrying our food, we continued our journey on Bijnor road. This point onwards our journey was really pleasant as the road is really good and traffic volume is low. Our beloved Santro touched 120 kmph many times on this stretch. However, there was a bottleneck at Najibabad due to construction work of a fly-over. That was a really bad patch of road to negotiate, especially with a car. From Najibabad upto Kotdwar the journey was largely uneventful, except occasional view of monkeys and other wild animal.

Around 5 PM we reached Kotdwar. Lansdowne is only 40 km from Kotdwar. We were wondering - where is the hill station? There was no sign of any hill landscape and we were only 40km from Lansdowne. But then, we had not even crossed Kotdwar and suddenly the landscape changed. We felt as if under a magical charm. The plains have transformed into hills!! This was the first of many ‘wow’ moments during our Lansdowne visit. You feel like standing at a threshold where you see plains on your back and the hills next to you! Awful... we embarked upon the roller-coaster from Kotdwar to Lansdowne.

As you start ascending from Kotdwar the landscape changes dramatically. The Garhwall Himalyas begin to give glimpses of their majesty. Road is exceptionally good, owing to the presence of the Garhwal Regiment. While we were about 10 kms from Lansdowne, the Garhwall Himalyan Hills started unfolding their magic and mysticism. All of a sudden we found ourselves engulfed by clouds and visibility was hardly 5 meters! The quintessential post rain fragrance of woods and vegetation filled our car. Looking down the valley filled with clouds I felt at the door of eternity. There was nothing beyond this point except white and grey thick volume of clouds. I could have never imagined that such a place existed so close to Delhi. By the time we reached Blue Pine Resort, 3 km before Lansdowne, the clouds had receded into some unknown oblivion and the visual spectacle of the hills and valleys was restored.

At the resort Mr Jitendra the manager welcomed us. He was apprehensive of our arrival because all other guests (all from Delhi!!) had already ‘descended’ at Lansdowne and we were very late. We were quickly taken to our family suite on second floor which was a spacious and comfortable room. After negotiating minor glitches of housekeeping, soon we were enjoying tea in the balcony. A good thing about Blue Pine Resort is that all its rooms are valley facing. I inhaled fresh air which filled my lungs alongwith the aroma of butter chicken! Yes, our room was above the kitchen exhaust. While having tea, we again found ourselves in the midst of clouds and the valley again transformed into the door of eternity. Soon the clouds again receded. The clouds were playing hide and seek with the hills and the valley. Nature was demonstrating its jubilation. Welcome to Lansdowne. This peculiar phenomenon gives this otherwise non-assuming place its distinct character.

As the night unfolded there was an absolute and divine serenity and silence in the vicinity. You can have effortless meditation at this place. The silence was broken abruptly by a Punjabi Pop and we were astonished to see the DeeJay (DJ) with its complete paraphernalia on the terrace of the resort. This was unbelievable. Have we come this far from Delhi to listen to this creep and bear this DJ? I called the manager in utter irritation and anger. But his answer rendered me speechless. “Sir, we never knew in our life what a DJ is. It was on the insistence of tourists from big cities (read Delhi) that we had to arrange for it. We ourselves do not like it. But tell me what we can do when the group bookings are made only after extortion of assurance of DJ?” I can only sympathize with these people who are so unfortunate that they do not know what to do with this blissful silence other than breaking it. This DJ drama starts at 7 PM and runs upto 10 PM. There goes your quite evening. There and then I took the vow – never ever to stay at the Blue Pine Resort. This was my simple escape because I cannot expect these people to change. May be it is the only way they can enjoy. Anyway, two shots of Fuel and the food somehow calmed the temper. Food was really good and the buffet is very reasonably priced too. This place however has no bar so better you carry your booze. We were so tired that never realized when felt asleep.

Next morning we woke up with a magnificent sunrise which filled the valley with its warmth and illuminated the hills with its golden rays. I reminisced beautiful lyrics of a Sufi song – ‘aj din chadeya tere rang verga’. I realized how fast paced our life has become that we have no time to take a pause and absorb the beauty and serenity of nature. The terraces of houses nestled in the valley were reflecting sunrays which created illumination of gold. Wonderful.

The first item on our itinerary was visit to Tarakeshwar, a 600 years old Shiva Temple approximately 40 kms from Lansdowne. After quick tea at 8.15 am we began our journey to Tarakeshwar and decided to have breakfast on the way. The first left turn on Lansdowne-Kotdwar Road is the road to Tarakeshwar. The road is very good for its surface, again thanks to the Garhwal Regiment, but very tricky and testing for any amateur driver from plains. A bright sunny morning, fresh air and the company of my little angel, my son Chaitanya, made it a wonderful drive. We stopped near a knoll which provided good vantage point to see the thin line of the river flowing at the bed of the valley. After some pics and absorbing serenity of the place we resumed journey to Tarakeshwar. Suddenly there appeared a wild fox on the road. It was baffled to see us curious onlookers and after following us for a while vanished into the forests. Soonafter we crossed a small kasba ‘Sikandi’. There is only one small eatery and at that time the smell of hot samosas compelled us to stop. I quickly got samosas packed for all of us. We were so hungry that we devoured all samosas within no time. Those were really tasty samosas – less spicy, very lite and fresh, just like good home-made ones.

Moving on from Sikandi, we reached a signboard for Tarkeshwar 5 Km left. At this point you have to depart from the main road and turn to left on a very fragile earthen road. At many places there is virtually no road. The track is so narrow that two vehicles can not cross simultaneously. The Murphy’s Law makes the life further miserable on this track. I came across another vehicle from opposite site at the most difficult of curves I have ever negotiated. One needs to very cautious, patient and vigilant on this stretch to Tarakeshwar. At a point of time I was cursing myself for giving such harassment to my beloved Santro. But this beauty from Hyundai stable proved its mettle again and negotiated this stretch with élan. I reminisced our Himachal trip in December 2008 when our Santro took us comfortably from Delhi to Chail, Fagu, Narkanda, Shimla and back to Delhi.

At Tarakeshwar, you have to park vehicle about 100 mtrs from the temple where you start descending amidst dense forest of Deodars. Soon we were standing at the gate of Tarakeshwar temple. The impregnable canopies of Deodars do not permit any sun rays to touch the ground, even though it was a bright sunny day. A unique divine serenity surrounded this place. Such an elegant expression of divinity rendered me numb and speechless. Beyond doubt this is an abode of the Shiva. Visiting Tarakeshwar is a life time opportunity for rendezvous with the divinity expressed as nature. This was a spiritual experience of highest order and it would a travesty to try to explain it in words.

While ascending to the parking there is a small ‘Maheshwari Ashram’ where we had tea. The caretaker of the Ashram Mr Kamal Dev was quintessential of Garhwali simplicity and hospitality. You can have your lunch organized at this place if you intimate the Ashram in advance. Also, it is only at this Ashram you can find a toilet. There is no other toilet in the temple complex and unlike the rest of India you are not allowed to relieve in the open.

Mesmerized with Tarakeshwar, in terms of both the roller-coaster ride as well as the wonderful spiritual experience, we started journey back to Lansdowne. A Garhwali woman asked for lift upto ‘Sikandi’. She opened a new window to understand the life of the people of this place. She talked with us about her village, fields, crops, livestock, relatives, issue of migration, her spiritual guru, et al. This was an entirely different perspective on life for us urban people. No wonder this region produces the bravest soldiers and hardworking people. What we need to learn the most is that they do not crib on trivial infirmities of life. These simple yet strong and composed people of Garhwal are the best exponents of the prayer that we often make but seldom do -

God grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change;
Courage to change the things I can;
And wisdom to know the difference.

It is the connect and acknowledgement of the interdependence with the nature that enables these people negotiate life in hills with humility and grace. Compared to them I feel myself so down at the pedestal.

We dropped the mother Garhwal at ‘Sikandi’ and she gave my son a Garhwali kheera – the biggest cucumber I have ever seen. After mutual thanksgiving we parted our ways and headed for the same ‘Khantwal Restaurant and Tourist Hotel’ where we had picked samosas in the morning. After a simple yet very tasty lunch – Dal (mixed lentils and kidney beans), sabzi, rice, chapati and Thums-up we headed for Lansdowne and by 2.30 pm we were back at the Blue Pine Resort.

Since we had to leave for Delhi next morning we decided to check the town before day end and defer visiting other nearby places for next visit. Lansdowne is 3 km from Blue Pine Resort. At around 3.30 we started for town. Suddenly I realized that the indicator of my car’s fuel tank was limping leftward. I should have topped up the fuel tank at Kotdwar which is the nearest petrol tank from Lansdowne at a distance of 40 km. Although I started from Delhi on full belly of my Santro, I was apprehensive of the mileage on account of several traffic jams on the way including the mother of all jam at Modinagar that we negotiated in over an hour, 5 persons, Air-conditioner on and car moving only 1st or 2nd gear at virtually zero speed. I wished I could get just 2-3 liters petrol to raise my comfort level. We decided to try luck in the town.

As we reached the entry point of Lansdowne the boards, hoardings and a huge commemorative Garhwal Regiment wall welcomed us. Moving little further I saw a parking sign board indicating to the left. I was amazed as the road connecting to the parking ground – more appropriately a pit – was in very bad shape. Somehow I managed to park the car but as I came out towards the regiment gate I realized what a blunder I have committed. The sentry at the Regiment gate told us that it is the abandoned parking whereas town in far ahead and you can drive down up to the last point of Lansdowne!!! Hi, hope you had never seen such a big idiot! Thanks sentry! It was with great difficulty and able navigation of my wife and son that I could come out of that parking pit... with car of-course. Be careful, if anybody listening.

Next we reached ‘Bhulla Lake’, which a good place for ‘point-to-point tourists’ – a term coined by my wife for tourists anxiously hoping from one place to another without bothering to absorb or connect with any place fully! So at Bhulla Lake, an ordinary artificial water body dug by trainee soldiers and maintained by the cantonment board, you can do boating, buy herbal plants, climb the tree house, have a snack and coke / coffee at the café while your kids / brats enjoy swings / slides / jumps. That is all... Bhulla Lake for you.

To be honest we were more anxious to leave this place as our mission was to somehow manage a couple of gallons of petrol. We asked three different persons – an army jawan, café manager and a curious onlooker – Can we get some petrol here anywhere in Lansdowne? Threesome gave the same reply – go to sadar bazar and ask for Guptaji’s Chakki (Flour mill). This was really quintessential of our transparency. A secret known to everyone that where you can get petrol in black market. Necessity necessitates necessary necessity!!! If there were any petrol pump in Lansdowne, there would have been no market for black market. It is simple lifenomics. As we started from Bhulla Lake towards Sadar Bazar we saw a family – a middle aged couple with their daughter – waving hand for lift. With pleasure we obliged and welcomed them in our car with the question of the day – where to find petrol? Swift came the same reply- the Chakki at Sadar Bazar. The gentlemen told that they were going to Kotdwar to attend a wedding. Soon we reached Sadar Bazar and we found a cab ready for Kotdwar. But wait, another example of Garhwali generosity was in store for us. The gentleman let go the cab and said first let us get petrol for you and then they will proceed to Kotdwar. He led me to the Chakki and I could make out our savior was a well known person. For Guptaji obliged us with five liters of petrol at almost market price. We thanked them and filled the belly of Santro. It was 6.45 pm and we decided to call it a day and retire to Blue Pine.

About next day... in my next post. Till then goodbye.